April 27, 2023
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0:59Now PlayingFor the best odds of getting into New York’s most exclusive new restaurant, you need to be a very specific type of person: an American Express Centurion Card holder.
Opened in mid-March, Centurion New York is effectively a dining club for those with the coveted black card. It occupies the 17,000-square-foot 55th floor of the glossy new One Vanderbilt skyscraper, towering over Manhattan’s Grand Central Terminal. The constantly evolving menu is by Daniel Boulud, and the food delivers enough drama and decadence to pull your attention away from the knockout city views — a panoramic rarity in Midtown dining, unless you count a bar mitzvah at the Rainbow Room.
There’s the hand-chopped Imperial Wagyu tartare, prepared tableside on a matte black trolley, augmented with just one drop of Portuguese piri-piri for heat. There’s a heart of palm salad heaped with rosettes of shaved tête de moine cheese. Throw in some pasta with uni, truffled pomme purée and more wagyu, this time custom-blended for a burger that’s piled with bacon on a house-made potato bun.
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